WEBVTT
Kind: captions
Language: en

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It’s that time of year again, the time where
we embrace the meaning of the holidays by

00:00:05.140 --> 00:00:09.970
relentlessly spending our money at various
shrines to consumerism around the world, and

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covering our homes in a superfluous amount
of lights.

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I’m not so much a fan of the former, but
I do like lights.

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And in this video, I’ll be showing you my
favorite kind.

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This is the part where you say, “This isn’t
what I thought the next video was going to

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be about!”, and you’re right.

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I just came back from a family trip and still
have to finish that one up.

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For now, though, I want to show you a special
kind of light.

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These lights seem to be fairly uncommon, which
is a shame because the effect they produce

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is in my opinion unparalleled.

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As you shall soon see.

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First a few qualifiers.

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If I were to refer to these as Hmm hmm lights,
I’d annoy a particular set of people.

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And if I referred to them as hmm hm hm lights
I’d annoy the opposite particular set of

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people.

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So I’ll take the British approach and refer
to these as Fairy Lights.

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Now you’re both annoyed.

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This video will focus mainly on incandescent
fairy lights because the sets I’m talking

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about fall under that category.

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So first, some general info.

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Note that this is from an American perspective
where fairy lights run at 120 volts.

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Incandescent fairy lights of this style tend
to be constructed as cheaply as possible.

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The wiring is done point-to-point, with the
lamp holders simply being a plastic tube thing

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with the wires just sorta poking up through
the bottom and being held to the sides.

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The lamps are equally primitive.

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Just a glass envelope with a tiny filament
suspended between two support wires that go

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straight out the bottom of the glass.

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A removable plastic base holds the glass with
the wires bent up the sides, and it lines

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up with the lamp holder, which presses the
wires of the bulb into the wires at the sides

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of the base.

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A set of 100 lights is typically made of two
series circuits of 50 lights each, with the

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lights running at about 2.4 volts.

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If you remove a light from the string, that
opens the circuit, and half the strand goes

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out.

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This is the cause of much frustration, let
me tell you.

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But, to prevent a burnt out bulb from opening
the circuit and thus killing half the string,

00:01:54.709 --> 00:01:57.319
the bulbs are constructed with a clever little
feature.

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At the base of the bulb, wrapped around the
support wires, is a little wire loop.

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This wire is coated with a weak insulator
that will prevent current from flowing through

00:02:05.409 --> 00:02:08.530
it at the normally low operational voltage.

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But if the filament breaks, the full 120 volts
is briefly present at the lamp because none

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of the other lamps are receiving current and
dropping the voltage down.

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The insulation around the wire loop will usually
break down with such a high voltage, which

00:02:21.490 --> 00:02:26.380
turns it into a shunt, thus shorting out the
lamp and continuing the circuit.

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This is known as an antifuse, and I said the
insulation usually breaks down because we

00:02:30.900 --> 00:02:35.010
have all had a set of lights that just refuses
to work for no apparent reason, and this is

00:02:35.010 --> 00:02:36.130
a possible culprit.

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That’s what light repair devices are used
for--by detecting voltage at each of the lamps,

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you can travel along the string to find out
which light is the last to receive voltage,

00:02:45.590 --> 00:02:47.970
and thus which one is likely the cause of
a fault.

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As an unfortunate side-effect of this feature,
each shorted lamp increases the voltage across

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the remaining lamps.

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With 49 operational lamps instead of fifty,
each lamp now gets about 2.45 volts.

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They’re rated at 2.5 volts, at least in
these sets, so one or two burnt out lights

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won’t be too harmful.

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But with only 45 lights working, each remaining
light gets 2.66 volts.

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With 40 operational lamps, the rest get a
whole 3 volts.

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Each burnt out light makes the rest work harder,
and thus increases the likelihood of future

00:03:18.790 --> 00:03:19.920
lamp failures.

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Eventually, the set will experience a rapid
cascade failure of all the lamps, turning

00:03:24.280 --> 00:03:28.020
the whole string into a short circuit, and
the fuse in the plug will blow.

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It’s for this reason that you should replace
a burnt out lamp as soon as possible in a

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string of miniature fairy lights.

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So, now that you understand the operation
of fairy lights a little more, let’s get

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to the subject of this video.

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Most conventional strands of lights come with
a couple of flasher bulbs, identified by a

00:03:42.631 --> 00:03:43.740
red tip.

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These contain a bimetallic strip that reacts
to the heat from the filament, causing it

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to bend.

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After a certain amount of time, the bimetallic
strip bends sufficiently to break the circuit.

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Once it cools down, the circuit will be reconnected,
and the filament will re-light, which reheats

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the bimetallic strip, and it goes out again.

00:03:59.920 --> 00:04:03.070
This repeats over and over and over again.

00:04:03.070 --> 00:04:06.500
When you replace any lamp with one of these
suckers, it will cause half of the light strand

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to flash because it will break the entire
circuit once the bimetallic strip has warmed

00:04:09.910 --> 00:04:12.220
up, and will reconnect it once it cools.

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I’ve always found this to be a rather dumb
looking effect, and I think most people agree

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because these flasher bulbs seem almost never
to be used.

00:04:18.980 --> 00:04:23.090
But, there are some strands of lights that
use a different kind of flasher bulb, and

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use many of them.

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These seem to be sold as “twinkling” lights,
and their approach is completely different.

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These are the subject of this video, and I
really really like them.

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These strands use many flashers, typically
every fifth light, and these flashers don’t

00:04:37.389 --> 00:04:39.600
break the circuit when the bimetallic stip
bends.

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Instead, they short out when the strip bends.

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This does two things.

00:04:43.570 --> 00:04:47.560
First, the current bypasses the filament as
it takes the path of least resistance, and

00:04:47.560 --> 00:04:48.560
the bulb goes out.

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But, it also increases the voltage to the
rest of the strand.

00:04:52.090 --> 00:04:55.639
When you first power one of these sets up,
the entire light strand is illuminated.

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But as the flashers heat up, they start to
randomly go in and out.

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This is a great effect on its own, but because
they short themselves out when they’re not

00:05:02.920 --> 00:05:06.340
lit, they slightly affect the brightness of
the entire strand.

00:05:06.340 --> 00:05:10.780
This is most easily seen with a new set still
wrapped together, because this entire bundle

00:05:10.780 --> 00:05:12.880
has no flashers among it.

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Notice how it shimmers.

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This happens because the voltage across these
lamps is constantly changing as the flashers

00:05:18.820 --> 00:05:20.050
do their thing.

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Yet another great side effect of the way these
work is a gradual transition in brightness

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with each flasher.

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Normally, flasher bulbs produce a very sudden
on-off effect since the entire strand goes

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on and off at once.

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Because the strand as a whole sees 120 volts
when it first receives power, the filaments

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nearly instantly achieve full brightness.

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The voltage between them doesn’t drop to
2.4 volts until they’re all hot, as the

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resistance of an incandescent lamp is about
15 times greater when it’s hot compared

00:05:47.070 --> 00:05:48.639
to when it’s cold.

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But since the lamps in a twinkling set only
see between 2.4 and 3 volts across them as

00:05:53.400 --> 00:05:57.760
they twinkle, they don’t have 120 volts
to get them started, so they don’t suddenly

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turn on and off like a conventional set.

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See, when you apply just 2.4 volts to a normal
bulb, it lights up very slowly compared to

00:06:05.730 --> 00:06:09.960
just plugging a set into the wall, because
the lower voltage will pass less initial current

00:06:09.960 --> 00:06:12.880
through the filament, and thus heat it more
slowly.

00:06:12.880 --> 00:06:16.760
This creates a more gradual turn-on for the
flashers which I find very nice.

00:06:16.760 --> 00:06:19.730
Now, you might ask, why am I making this video?

00:06:19.730 --> 00:06:23.890
The short answer is, I find these sets of
fairy lights to be nothing short of delightful.

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They’re a nice enhancement to a static display
without being annoying, and their randomness

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is appealing.

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Though animated LED based strands are available,
they don’t come close to these in my opinion.

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And, these sets are harder and harder to find.

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In fact, I don’t think many people realize
they exist.

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I rarely see people using them.

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The only place in my area that seems to reliably
stock them every year is Menards.

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Now if you’re not an American midwesterner
you probably don’t know Menards, but they’re

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a local chain of hardware stores, essentially
a larger, quite a bit more eccentric version

00:06:55.500 --> 00:06:58.920
of the Home Depot or Lowes, complete with
a banjo-filled jingle.

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♪ Save Big Money at Menards! ♪

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ACE hardware also had a small number of sets
for sale, but clearly they don’t sell too

00:07:06.990 --> 00:07:10.830
well as they’re kind of left alone among
dozens of other offerings.

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The Home Depot doesn’t appear to sell them,
and neither does Walmart.

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I don’t have a Lowes near me, otherwise
I’d have checked.

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If anyone knows of other places you can find
these, please let us know in the comments.

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It may be that they’re uncommon because
the rest of the lights are designed to tolerate

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the increased voltage the flashers let through.

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They aren’t your standard 2.4 volt bulbs,
in fact they’re 2.9 volts,

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a somewhat rare rating.

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This high voltage rating allows them to spend
most of their existence being underrun; they

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will see their rated voltage only in the rare instance
that nine or more flashers along the 50 light

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circuit are currently in the off state, which
virtually never happens with 10 total flashers.

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On average they only see 2.66 volts.

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And while we’re on the subject of fairy
lights, allow me to express a few grievances.

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This, I’m sure, is more preference than
anything, but there’s only one retailer

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near me, that’s ACE hardware, that sells
what I consider to be the “correct” color

00:08:03.681 --> 00:08:09.960
combination of simply Yellow, Red, Green,
and Blue for multi-colored light strands.

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Nearly everyone else uses orange instead of
yellow, and adds purple or pink.

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Sometimes there’s even a cyanish blue in
there.

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I’m most bothered by the replacement of
yellow with orange because yellow is a very

00:08:20.230 --> 00:08:23.380
bright color and provides contrast from the
others.

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Orange is too dark and similar to red.

00:08:25.570 --> 00:08:27.340
But that’s just my humble opinion.

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Also, I really don’t care for most multicolored
LED fairy lights offered today, largely because

00:08:32.870 --> 00:08:34.930
of the way they are implemented.

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Perhaps I’m out of touch, but I am not a
fan of the monochromatic blue LEDs used in them.

00:08:40.180 --> 00:08:45.460
They produce a visual effect for me of a fuzzy
halo and are almost hard to focus me eyes on.

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In fact, I find all of the colors but red
to be a bit jarring precisely because they

00:08:49.640 --> 00:08:50.779
are monochromatic.

00:08:50.779 --> 00:08:55.710
I’d like to see a set of multicolored LED
lights made with entirely warm white LEDs

00:08:55.710 --> 00:08:59.040
but with tinted diffusers just like in the
good old days.

00:08:59.040 --> 00:09:00.960
I think these would be easier on the eyes.

00:09:00.960 --> 00:09:03.070
In fact, that gives me an idea…

00:09:03.070 --> 00:09:06.339
I’m gonna do some experimentation and report
back in another video.

00:09:06.339 --> 00:09:10.670
In general I think LED fairy lights have gotten
very good lately, and the warm white color

00:09:10.670 --> 00:09:15.160
is becoming better every year, plus I think
applications like icicle lights or snowflake

00:09:15.160 --> 00:09:18.750
type things are a good application for cool
white LEDs.

00:09:18.750 --> 00:09:23.570
I particularly like the fact that since they
use so little power you can string many sets

00:09:23.570 --> 00:09:26.370
together without worrying about capacity.

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But I don’t like the fact that they’re
constructed just like incandescents sets.

00:09:30.649 --> 00:09:34.590
In fact, I purchased this set of lights just
to confirm my suspicions, and though I don’t

00:09:34.590 --> 00:09:38.460
want to suppose this is convention, I find
it rather funny that these are just regular

00:09:38.460 --> 00:09:42.850
LEDs with their pins shoved down a regular
lamp holder and bent up the sides, with the

00:09:42.850 --> 00:09:47.060
rest of the light strand design being essentially
identical to an incandescent one, aside from

00:09:47.060 --> 00:09:50.960
this little doodad which I’m assuming is
a diode and capacitor to limit current.

00:09:50.960 --> 00:09:56.640
I know other sets use fancier diffusers with
other shapes, but the sockets are usually pretty similar

00:09:56.640 --> 00:10:01.280
But on that note, it seems nearly every LED
set I’ve encountered is only half-wave rectified

00:10:01.290 --> 00:10:05.790
with no smoothing at all, which makes them
flicker like mad.

00:10:05.790 --> 00:10:10.270
Spin them around and you can see that they’re
lit perhaps only 10% of the time, owing to

00:10:10.270 --> 00:10:13.480
them only being lit at the very peak of the
positive cycle.

00:10:13.480 --> 00:10:17.030
Anyway, I’m all for energy efficient lighting
as anyone who follows this channel knows,

00:10:17.030 --> 00:10:21.899
but I haven’t seen an LED set that can duplicate
this twinkling effect so well.

00:10:21.899 --> 00:10:26.360
Most of them are animated strings like this,
but they don’t address each bulb individually

00:10:26.360 --> 00:10:29.170
so it’s an unsubtle and predictable effect.

00:10:29.170 --> 00:10:34.490
I have seen some applications of prelit figurines
with a small percentage of LEDs that do twinkle,

00:10:34.490 --> 00:10:38.300
but if memory serves the individual LEDs flashed
at a steady rate.

00:10:38.300 --> 00:10:41.580
They weren’t all the same flashing rate,
so they drifted apart from one another, but

00:10:41.580 --> 00:10:44.420
there was no randomness in each one.

00:10:44.420 --> 00:10:46.450
Also the rest of the lights were unaffected.

00:10:46.450 --> 00:10:49.900
I’m afraid I’ll have to just be a fuddy
duddy a little longer and keep buying a few

00:10:49.900 --> 00:10:51.330
backup sets of these each year.

00:10:51.330 --> 00:10:53.290
I’ve got 5 extra now.

00:10:53.290 --> 00:10:55.150
And no, I don’t have a problem.

00:10:55.150 --> 00:10:58.020
Thanks for watching, and I hope you found
this video interesting.

00:10:58.020 --> 00:11:01.970
Like I said, I want these lights to survive
and I want more people to know about them.

00:11:01.970 --> 00:11:06.010
I’ll leave you a view of the lights on my
balcony so you can enjoy them.

00:11:06.010 --> 00:11:09.010
If you’re new to this channel and like what
you saw, please consider subscribing!

00:11:09.010 --> 00:11:13.570
Of course, thank you to all of my Patreon
supporters for keeping this channel possible.

00:11:13.570 --> 00:11:15.230
You really make all the difference.

00:11:15.230 --> 00:11:18.691
You can support this channel through the link
that will appear shortly on your screen, or

00:11:18.691 --> 00:11:20.110
by visiting the link down below.

00:11:20.110 --> 00:11:23.940
Thank you for your consideration, and I’ll
see you next time.

00:11:45.580 --> 00:11:46.940
(Strained) Oh, god.

00:11:48.860 --> 00:11:50.600
Those were very hot.

